November 25th and I wake up in Qatar ahead of a hectic day of World Cup action where I’ll be watching three games, in three stadiums, all in one day.
It’s a hot and dry Doha morning, my tent is heating up quickly, but it’s tolerable.
I open the door of the shop to let the air flow and to get a beautiful view of the Doha skyline across the bay. I am recovering after a few hours of sleep.
French Montana performed an impromptu concert last night, an added treat for the Moroccans in attendance (as this was before their World Cup magic began).
Packing all my luggage in my two bags, I carefully organize everything I own. This might be the last time I see these bags for a while.
Packing essentials into my backpack, snacks, my Hayya card (your lifeline here in Qatar), wallet and a neatly folded Wales, Qatar and US T-shirt.
I put on my Welsh Bucket Hat like a soldier’s helmet, it’s time for battle. And by battle I mean getting out of my tent, attending three games in one day, and catching my 4 am flight back to the United States.
It should be easy, of course it won’t be. Yes, the flight is at 4 am, at Doha International Airport from mid-November to the end of December, there is no unusual hour of operation.
My itinerary for the day, if you noticed the jerseys I packed, a Wales, Qatar and USA jersey. Matchday games, Wales vs Iran, Qatar vs Senegal and USA vs England.
A whole day and I’m looking forward to some great football (I know… it’s called football) and I hope for good results.
First Wales vs. Iran.
Wales vs Iran
For anyone who knows me, Wales is my heart. I’m an American, but because we know we’re American, we’re obsessed with our heritage.
I have no German, Italian or Irish claim. My surname is Pugh as these are my Welsh rights which I claim for my ticket at the Red Wall (the Welsh fan base).
I have followed the Football Association of Wales for quite a few years and it has been a roller coaster of emotions.
From qualifying for Euro 2016, to beating Belgium in the 2016 quarter-finals, to getting Ireland to shatter their 2018 World Cup dreams. I’m here for it all.
To start the day’s journey, I meet up with some Welsh friends I made at the Free Zone Fan Village last week and we take the metro to the Ahmad bin Ali Stadium.
It’s easy to know where to go, FOLLOW THE HAT HATS or listen to the singing of the Welsh campaign hymn Yma o Hyd! Arriving at the stadium, I immediately realize that we may be the home team on paper, but the Iranians who turned up for their relatively short flight have flipped the script.
I am amazed by the emotion that surrounds me, the singing of the Welsh and equally the singing of the Iranians in Farsi. I stop for a moment longer to look at an Iranian lady, she sports messages all over her.
Obviously, this is a protest about what is happening at home. Surreal things to see that up close.
When I enter the stadium, I take in every moment. It’s a fresh feeling to have the first match of the day. Not as intense as a night game, but just as important.
I settle into my seat at the Red Wall wearing my early 1990s Christmas Tree Welsh Throwback T-shirt. I make small talk with the fans next to me, explaining my American accent and cracking other jokes.
As far as the match is concerned, a bit more action would have been welcome. Wales held Iran 0-0 for a while and then the floodgates opened after goalkeeper Wayne Hennessey got a little anxious and came out of the box for a red-carded defending play.
Just when you thought it would be 0-0, at the last minute of discount Iran broke them. And then added insult to injury for a second.
The whistle blows, the anguish of watching Bale and company grudgingly thank the Red Wall. Deep down they know the chances of an early return to Cardiff look very likely.
I take the last moments of the environment. It’s all memories, win or lose. I also realize this is my last time at the Red Wall for a while (until I return to Cardiff one day).
Qatar vs Senegal
Outside the Ahmad Bin Ali Stadium I meet my friend Ben from Sydney and we take a taxi to the stadium to watch Qatar take on Senegal.
Racing to Al Thumama, we arrived just in time for the action. I love this stadium, inspired by the traditional gahfiya hat, it’s the perfect place to watch the host country play.
Scores of Qatari fans in traditional clothing wave their maroon and white flags. The Senegalese are spread all over the stadium and, as anyone knows, they are dancing the full 90 minutes and more. With my Budweiser Zero, I am happier than ever.
I’m wearing Qatar’s white away jersey with a hint of desert attributes to get into the spirit. I’m neutral on the outcome, so I’m just hoping to see some good action.
Senegal is up 1-0 before the break on a Boulaye Dia goal and you feel the Qataris are slowly losing faith in their team for this tournament. Can they really be the first host nation to fail to make it past the group stage? I think so…
After Senegal doubled the lead, Qatar finally got their first goal of the tournament from Mohammed Muntari and the fans erupted. It’s time to fly those maroon and white flags again!
By the end of the match it is a 3-1 final and Senegal is dancing to the beat of the drums as their next match will be their ticket to the round of 16. I present my applause to Senegal and Qatar and slowly walk out of the stadium.
england vs usa
And now, it’s time to focus on tonight’s main event, England vs USA – distant cousins ​​across the Atlantic.
The Crown against the boisterous colonists, if we’re still sentimental about 1776, of course. I’ve been looking forward to seeing this place we’re at. In the most beautiful of all stadiums in Qatar, the Al Bayt Stadium.
I always wanted to stay in a Bedouin tent, why not watch a football game in one? It is the same place that hosted the opening match of Qatar vs. Ecuador if you need reference.
Representing Qatari and Arab hospitality, Bedouin tents mean much more than meets the eye.
This tent stadium is very north of Doha. Mixed in traffic factors, it can be a nearly 45 minute to an hour drive. The recommended route is by bus provided by FIFA for fans. On the bus, we are mostly Americans mixed with some easy going English.
Under the lights it’s 22:00 here at Al Bayt Stadium, everyone knows that everyone is watching. I have never experienced an intense sensation like this.
The Americans fill one side of the stadium while the English fill the other side. I am amazed to see a plethora of talent on the pitch, particularly the English. The Three Lions are basically an English Premier League All Star team (not all of them, of course).
It’s an interesting moment when you finally see the footballers in person instead of on TV.
By the time one reads this, I won’t have to exaggerate the game as we all know it ended 0-0. Still feeling like a win, the USA coming away with a point against England is something to be proud of.
Once again, as the final whistle blows, I remember the last moments I have of the 2022 World Cup. Then I head to the buses, it’s time to go home.
I leave Doha with mixed feelings, exhausted, exhausted, satisfied, fulfilled but still feeling that there is more to explore and experience.
Even though most of my matches don’t include many goals or tournament highlights, I don’t regret a thing. Every second of this tournament is part of the experience and regardless of the outcome, it’s all about the memories and love of the sport.
Thank you Qatar for the memories.
Photo credit: IMAGO/Icon Sportswire
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